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THE BEACH and PROMENADESMany years ago the main road along the sea front was festooned with ornamental street lamps, at the top of which were little enamel plaques with illustrations of the lighthouse and a civic motto whatever it was ('Sic transit gloria mundi' if they'd had any sense). I have been told that these lamps were once kept lit by methane from the sewers — if that were true, wouldn't now be a good time to bring them back, the emanations from extractor fans behind certain Whitley Road take-aways would probably do the trick on their own. Crossing the road at the Rex (a good idea at the best of times), past an unsmiling octagonal clock (one guess what colour it was recently painted) and several "Bloomin' North Tyneside" tubs of soil and cans, there are plenty places to go and get a soaking when the sea is rough — a scattering of ill-thought-out steps, random seating areas (are those people contemplating suicide or just enjoying the view?), and concrete urinating platforms, some leading to nowhere and some which teeter down to where the beach begins. At the bottom of the main slope down on the Lower Prom was once a tumultuous mini-world of buzzing souvenir sellers, chippies and cafés; and friend-since-1969 Rob Healy's family ran a little well-stocked buckets and spades and rock and pop (sweets, not records!) shop from which we would "borrow" new swimming trunks and leap about and have seaweed fights in the warm lagoons left by the tide. It's all boarded up now except for the brave (and rather excellent) Down Under restaurant and a well-kept Lifeguard station. (It's comforting to know that, while you and your airbed are being swept out 200 yards at sea entangled by giant squid, the lifeguard is sitting painting red blobs on the table and floor of the watch hut — go and take a look!) The Promenade proper begins just down from the ammonial tang of the Watt’s Slope bogs. In the '70s, God's Gestapo (Salvation Army) would perform regular gigs here in the open air, just outside the door to the gents (beats whistling to cover the offending noises from any toilet duties I can tell you). At the top of the slope near the Tourist Info Centre, was a wooden stall from which an elderly lady sold mussels and willicks. At the bottom, the Watt's Café was then a large tumbledown yellow shed, with barbed wire around the back to stop kids from climbing onto the roof. On the sand nearby were shuggy boats, merry-go-rounds and donkey rides (and donkey droppings, still steaming, that you could sit round and warm your hands on).Further along from the tatty end of the concrete Prom, the surface suddenly exploded into life with battenburg-like pink and pale yellow paving slabs, all the way to where the money for such things ran out. They are still there in the main, but worn and faded by time and lashings of North Sea and Glaswegian Jesus sandals. The many sets of steps leading down to the sand were the scene of 'dodging the waves' at high tide; if you dared to run from one set of steps to the next, a big wave would come swooshing in and pin you against the sea wall in your drenched crimplene flares, leaving seaweed in your hair and wet sand up your bum. Nature always bats last... Along the beach are several outlet pipes which I think are where various streams and denes reach the sea. They were just big enough to crawl inside but got a bit creepy and dark and smelly the further you went in. Our theory was that when local householders flushed their toilets, this is where it all came out. Yet we would still see how far we could scuttle in, and make dams in the milky water from sand and stones and bits of driftwood.A little further after the main Promenade comes to a ragged slopey conclusion, a humpbacked troll bridge crosses Briardene, overlooked by what we used to call the Captain Scarlet flats (Beacon House — great view from the roof up there by the way) and the former BP garage where the guy collected old Land Rovers, a clifftop footpath continues along by the 'pitch-and-putt' golf course, passing a curious little fenced-off 'boat yard' on the shore (in 40 years I've never actually seen anyone working in there — maybe it tilts up and out pops Thunderbird 2), to the highly picturesque sea wall promenade snaking round to the lighthouse causeway. Shockingly before this sea wall was built, folks would come from all around to dump fridges, cookers, mattresses, rubble, perhaps some kittens in a bag, and the odd Ford Anglia over the edge onto the rocks and sea below! THE PANAMA DIP and FOLKMOOT This once floral and ornate sunken-gardeny 'ampitheatre' was the stage for many a show of pre-rucksack global harmony. First of all I remember the wonderful marching, droning 'Scotchies' as we called them. The massed bagpipes and drums were deafening, and I still get a huge thrill when I hear that sound. But then we were given the Folkmoot, an astonishing annual week-long gathering of musicians and dancers, from all across Europe to as far away as Russia and the Americas. Scores of beautiful doll-like girls with rouged cheeks, weird togs and pigtails. Lots of whirling, riotous accordian music and stamping of clogged feet. Carpet-wearing piping Peruvians. Carpet-chested fearsome Turks, clashing their long, curved swords and shields. And, though having had their thunder stolen from that last bunch, adding an eerie Wicker Man touch were the hankies and bells of the Morrismen gay from the faraway land of Monkseaton.The authorities, in what was a gesture of goodwill to all nations I'm sure, would later put an end to the much-loved intercontinental gathering. Then another incompetent, with more soil than sense, took it upon himself to have the decorative fountain in the Panama Dip removed and the pool filled-in, rather disrespectfully, and leaving behind the plaque bemoaning the loss of lives in WWII for whom the fountain and pool were put there to commemorate. THE RENDEZVOUS CAFE If 1970s Whitley Bay reappeared in the mists like a sort of Brigadoon, this seafront temple of the snackular would look pretty much as it does today. A wondrous place and just the same as ever it was, with its wobbly formica tables and big arched windows looking out onto the panorama of sand and foam, the "Ren-dez-vowse" (as we called it before school taught us how to pronounce exotic words) is sadly the last remaining of the truly notable buildings that stood along the Prom.
“Woah! Am goan too see me girlfriend...” I have this lovely memory from 1975, during that scorching hot summer, of walking back from St Mary's Island along the glistening sunny beach to the sound of waves and laughter, and there was the very beautiful Tiziana, of the family who own the Rendezvous. She (who was in the year above me at Star of The Sea primary school) was playing in the sea and singing 'Barbados'. A lovely, golden snapshot of that time, though it'll mean sod all to anybody else. Hi Tiz! |
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